History of the Tuxedo

There are several types of suit styles. The evolution from frock, to country gentleman, to coattails and tuxedo has been a journey of the finest. The 1700s European men’s fashion was largely an affair of aristocrats who wanted to wear the most expensive clothes to show off in. As time progressed more notable fashions became the standard in courtly affairs. England is very much known for their gentlemen’s and knowing what to wear was of the utmost importance in the 1800s. Today’s standards are more casual but like in the 1800s, it is important to know what to wear, especially in a formal setting.

There are several different stories about the origin of the tuxedo. One story claims Pierre Lorillard IV a tobacco manufacturer, commissioned a new type of suit without the coattails. Pierre wore this suit at the Autumn Ball at the Tuxedo Club in Tuxedo Park, New York. Another tale tell of Pierre’s son wanting to defy his parents. In doing so, he and a handful of his friends decided to cut the tails off of the coattail suits. It was rumored when Pierre’s son was asked about the suit he stated he was “hunting foxes” then proceeding to speak with a young lady. Some historians believe Pierre Lorillard was inspired by Henry Pole & Company’s dinner jacket design. No matter how the tailless suit got its start, it was very much adored when it debuted during the Autumn Ball in 1886.

The tuxedo is a timeless classic. There hundreds of styles and designers to choose from. Elegant, charming and sophisticated, the tuxedo isn’t only about the jacket and trousers, there are several accessories which are essential.

Footwear

Shoes worn with tuxedos are formal pump or court shoe and the formal lace-up. Generally, the shoe is a slip on shoe, without laces thin leather and slightly shiny. A nicely polished calf shoe is acceptable if you do not want too much of a shine. If you do wear a lace up shoe such as the Oxford dress shoe, remember to lace your laces horizontally. Wear thin black socks.

Shirts

You have the prefect tux, now you need the proper shirt. Not only do you need to look into fabric, but you must consider collar style and cuffs.

Collar Styles

Wing : This is a traditional stand up collar. Looks great with standard neck tie and bow tie.

Tunnel : Like the wing style but has a piece of fabric covering the back of the collar

Laydown : Like an everyday dress shirt

Crosswick : Modern formal, you don’t need to wear a tie. Best worn with a button cover.

Mandarin : Like the wing style without the wings and looks like a crosswick. No ties.

Tuxedo Vest

Vest are not to be worn with tails. They are worn instead of cummerbunds.

Cummerbunds

A cummerbund is a waist sash sometimes pleated. A great way to add a little color to your tuxedo. Silver, black, white or a color which matches your bow tie would be appropriate.

Cuffs

French Cuff : Instead of being secured by a button the cuff is secured by cufflinks.

Button Cuff : Not as formal as a French cuff, but acceptable for any formal occasion. Instead of cufflinks there are buttons on the cuffs.

Neckwear

A tuxedo is not complete without a self-tied bowtie! There are several types of fabrics, and ways to tie your bow tie. Depending on your whole suit, you may want to try different ways to tie your bowtie such as, the butterfly or batwing. Some fashion experts say it is not appropriate to wear a conventional tie with a tuxedo. While other say, you can wear a black tie with your tux, just do not wear a vest or cummerbund with it. Another neckwear option is an ascot or cravat.

Cufflink

A great way to personalize your outfit. Usually worn with French cuffs.

Suspenders

Never wear a belt with a tuxedo. Wear suspenders instead.

Dress Watch (Optional)

Or classic pocket watch can add a bit of style to your outfit. If you do wear a wrist watch do not wear one that is flashy. Just because it is expensive doesn’t mean it will compliment your tux. Instead wear a watch which is discreet, with a black leather band.

Pocket Square
A handkerchief casually stuff in pocket.

Boutonniere (Optional)

This flower may be offered to you by your prom date, or worn to commemorate veterans. Boutonnieres are not to be worn with a pocket square.

Evening Scarf (Optional)

Also known as opera scarf. White with tassels.

Overcoat

The chesterfield coat should be black, dark blue or oxford gray. Raincoats or trench coasts are not appropriate outerwear for a tuxedo or tailcoat.

Gloves

Outdoor gloves are fine to wear. Soft suede is good, colors being a mocha or dark. White indoor glove are not in style, unless worn with military dress uniforms.

Hat

Black, dark blue homburg hat.